Three-dimensional designs don’t have to catch on clothing. Offer a capped design for clients who want the 3-D look without the fuss. Sam Biddle demonstrates how to do these black lily nails.
1. Prepare the natural nail. Apply a form and extend the nail bed with a custom-blended cover pink.
2. Using bright green acrylic, ‘paint’ the stems of the lilies directly on the form, dragging the acrylic when it is at the gel stage. Clean the sides with a dry brush.
3. Create the lilies by double dipping, first into purple and then into black acrylic powder. Place the bead on the form and press from the middle out. While it’s still pliable, gently lift the edges and fold them over at the base of the lily. Continue to add lilies to your design.
4. Mix gold pigment into a clear acrylic base powder for the stamen.
5. Create the leaves by double dipping, first into a pale green and then into the bright green used for the stems. Place the bead on the form. Pull out from the center into a point and press the edges out with your brush. Create definition with a sharp-edged tool. Then wash over the grooves with a very wet bead of the darker shade of green to give a shadowed effect. Continue to add leaves to your design.
6. Cap the entire design with clear acrylic, making sure that you create structure, and pinch the nail to create a C-curve.
Tip: To make your lilies stand out after the nail has been capped in clear, use a stronger color that contrasts with the background.
[Images: Sam Biddle]