It never ends. Client after client, year after year, you encounter damaged or weakened nails. Sometimes, the damage is environmental, from the nail product tester who digs in their rose garden bare-handed (true story) to classic dishwashing hands. Sometimes, it is just nutrition, fungus or genetics conspiring to give the client weaker, more fragile nails than they would want. But sadly, often the damage is from nail services themselves. Of course, you, as a Nailpro reader, are an educated and competent professional nail technician who has learned not to do such things. But you are not the only nail technician in town, and sometimes clients mess up their nails on their own, without any “help” from a nonstandard salon or a well-meaning but untrained friend.
Log in to view the full article
It never ends. Client after client, year after year, you encounter damaged or weakened nails. Sometimes, the damage is environmental, from the nail product tester who digs in their rose garden bare-handed (true story) to classic dishwashing hands. Sometimes, it is just nutrition, fungus or genetics conspiring to give the client weaker, more fragile nails than they would want. But sadly, often the damage is from nail services themselves. Of course, you, as a Nailpro reader, are an educated and competent professional nail technician who has learned not to do such things. But you are not the only nail technician in town, and sometimes clients mess up their nails on their own, without any “help” from a nonstandard salon or a well-meaning but untrained friend.
Nail Damage in Salon Services
Often, we hear that nail products themselves are to blame for damage, but, in truth, damage is almost always mechanical. Aggressive filing, picking off product and scraping softened product all cause damage that needs time to grow out. This includes regular buffing of the nails with padded files after and before removal.
These mechanical damages can lead to dehydration of the skin and nails, causing them to become brittle and weak. Applying too much product when performing enhancement services is also a factor, as it creates too much weight on the end of the natural nail when it grows out, and the enhancement will begin pulling and tearing at the natural nail underneath. Learning how to create a properly structured nail enhancement can help to avoid this.
To find out what kind of TLC will help damaged nails, read on.
Restore Flexibility
Cuticle oils and nail creams are known to soften the nail, making it less vulnerable to chipping or cracking. The products work by allowing oils to migrate into the nail. This replaces the natural oils, which have been removed during a nail service and may now be lost faster than normal due to the nail’s damaged surface.
Put on A Protective Overcoat
Applying product to the nails, any type of product that coats, can serve as a type of armor to protect the nails from further damage while they are growing out. While this doesn’t repair damage to the nail itself, it creates a layer to “protect” delicate nail plates. The easiest and quickest way to create a protective layer is to use a lacquer product that provides the strength needed. Enhancements work too! It’s important to ensure that the application and upkeep minimizes any damage that could be caused. The goal is to protect the surface of the nails.
Rebuild Broken Bonds
A variety of products through the years have been created for increasing the bonds between the nail protein chains. This process, called “cross-linking,” is similar at a molecular scale to the crossbeams that stabilize the frame of a building. For years, formaldehyde was the favored crosslinker for its effective performance at levels low enough to not be of toxicological concern (except in cases of allergy). However, regulatory concerns about formaldehyde and related chemicals (e.g. glyoxal) in nail hardeners have led to sanctions.
Amidst industry-wide endeavors driven by initiatives and changing consumer tastes, a novel approach has emerged in the search for alternative nail hardeners. New nail repair technology has come out that focuses on forming new bonds by replicating natural nail protein to repair and significantly enhance strength. This technology has been rigorously tested for maximum efficacy both in the lab and with consumers and should be strictly used as directed. This new bond building nail serum penetrates the nail surface to form new bonds, repairing the nail protein by 99%. This repair indeed then provides smooth looking nails that are 4X stronger.
Grow Stronger From Within
This is beyond the scope of nail pro practice, but it is well understood that nutritional deficiencies can cause nail problems. A well-balanced diet will normally go a long way toward keeping the nails healthy. Beyond that, there is debate, but there are reports of glucosamine, chondroitin, glycine and biotin strengthening fingernails. Obviously, eating these things will not fix a damaged nail surface but might help produce a stronger nail as new material grows out.
Comprehensive Approach to Product Testing
A dedicated research team conducts rigorous testing on every product, ensuring thorough evaluations before it reaches consumers. Testing procedures encompass a variety of methods, including co-creating with the nail professionals, instrumental tests conducted in the lab, consumer trials for feedback, safety evaluations, and more. Throughout the development process, multiple iterations of formulations are tested to achieve optimized performance , typically for 2+ years, but in the case of a recent new launch of a nail repair product, 6 years.
Following extensive screening and testing, the formula that provides the most positive consumer experience is selected. Similar levels of detailed validation go into developing and testing packages for application and delivery technology. Many product launches require extensive salon testing with the nail professionals to determine the most optimal application experience and user-friendly packaging. Further, lab testing of the packaging with various instruments is essential to verify package durability. For both salon and lab testing, dozens of trials may be required before choosing the final package and delivery method (e.g., brushes, spray bottles, etc.)
A professional and skilled R&D team is comprised of scientists and industry experts which operates a dedicated nail test salon on-site where community volunteers participate in trying out test products under strict confidentiality agreements. With the assistance of experienced nail professionals, products can be tested in various ways including on-site professional application, home use consumer tests or on-site self-application under professional guidance depending on the type of product. Many professional brands co-create with nail professionals in the industry, working together to develop new product formulations. As the actual user of the products, input from the nail professional is key to understanding their preferences and concerns. Researchers then adjust formulations based on nail professionals feedback to better meet their requirements. Each nail product undergoes evaluation based on specific criteria, ensuring alignment between instrumental lab data (such as increased strength) and consumer experiences during testing.
About the Authors:
Natasha Parikh is the associate director of claims and method development for Wella Company’s OPI brand. She has been with Wella since 2021, previously holding roles at Church & Dwight, L’Oreal and more.
Heather Reynosa is the director of global education design for OPI, as role she has served since 2020. She is also an advisory board member of UC Santa Barbara’s PaCE Customer Experience Certificate Program.
