How-To: Underside Nail Art Three Ways

Surprise clients with art techniques for beneath the nail tip. Underside nail art was first seen gracing the tips of celebrities, a pop of color or flash of bling worn on the flip side of the nail is an unexpected twist. To take the trend from Tinseltown to the salon, we tapped the creative talents of Allie Baker, winner of the 2015 NAILPRO Cup and global brand ambassador for EzFlow.


Here, her technique for under-the-nail art, including color, crystals and chrome.



1. Clean and prep the nail. Then, place a form on the nail.


2. To create the “color” under the nail, use a thin layer of colored acrylic to build out the free edge.


3. Next, apply a layer of clear acrylic over the entire nail.


4. Once the acrylic has set, remove the form and shape the nail with a hand file.


5. Brush the excess dust from the nail, then apply two coats of traditional or gel polish, curing between each coat. Be sure to choose a color that will hide the hue underneath.


6. To make the color under the nail pop, outline the underside of the tip in the same color used on the surface of the nail. Use just the edge of the polish brush to create a thin line. To finish, apply top coat to the surface only.



1. Follow steps 1 – 6, above. To add extra bling, use a thin striping brush to apply resin down the center of the underside of the tip.


2. Before the resin dries, quickly and carefully place a crystal on the underside of the tip. Then, apply resin to each side of the crystal, and place two small stones along each edge. Once the stones are secure, the design is done.



1. Follow steps 1-5, above. Place a small amount of black gel polish on a palette. Then, use a small flat brush to apply a thin layer of black gel polish under the nail, being careful to avoid the skin. Cure.


2. Using a silicon tool or small sponge applicator, apply a very thin layer of hologram chrome powder. Gently rub the powder into the nail. When the tip is fully covered, use a brush to remove the excess powder.


To finish, use a small flat brush to apply a thin layer of no-cleanse top coat under the tip, being careful to avoid the skin. Cure.

How are you nailing the underside on your clients? Let us know in the comments below! 

[Images: Courtesy of Michael Chase Gordon]

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