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A beautiful set of enhancements can be marred by lifting, plus it makes fill an even longer process. Here, we talk to four industry experts about why some clients are more prone to lifting than others and how you can combat it.
[Doug Schoon, Greg Salo, Heather Reynosa and Elaine Watson][Images: Courtesy of Hannah Ross, Armando Sanchez and contributors]
Doug Schoon, President Schoon Scientific
“Problems relating to improper adhesion (lifting) are difficult to solve if you don’t understand why they happen. Adhesion is a force that causes two surfaces to stick together, and the small area between two adhered surfaces is called the adhesive bond. As long as this bond is intact, the surfaces will not come apart. Properly cleaning the solid surface and proper application techniques will help prevent delamination, the breaking of the adhesive bond. That being said, you can use the best products and application techniques and still have lifting. How can that happen? The nail plate contains a high percentage of both water and oil. Both of these can cause lifting if they are found on the surface of the nail plate. The best way to ensure proper adhesion is to start with a clean, dry surface. Scrubbing the nail will remove surface oils and contaminants, and temporary nail dehydrators eliminate surface moisture for up to 30 minutes.”
Greg Salo, President Young Nails
“There are no shortcuts to preventing lifting. It’s a combination of correct prep, good application and proper finishing. First, I remove shine from the nail with an e-file and nothing coarser then a medium arbor band. (Note: There is a right way and a wrong way to do this technique, so make sure you’re trained correctly before using an e-file.) Then, I cleanse the nail before using Young Nails Protein Bond. It’s not a primer; it’s a bonder that acts like double- sided sticky tape. When it comes to acrylic application, make sure that your pearl is on the wet side. If it’s too dry, it won’t bond well to the natural nail. It’s also very important that the application at the cuticle be as flush to the natural nail as possible. You don’t want any ledges, which will lead to a lot of filing. Finally, when it comes to finishing, it’s important to blend the perimeter of the nail as tight as possible. Again, you don’t want ledges, as they can lead to snags around the edges. When acrylic is applied well, there’s less filing required, which means the bond to the natural nail won’t be disrupted.”
Heather Reynosa, Education Ambassador CND
“Lifting occurs when there isn’t a correct bond between the product and the nail plate. Therefore, the best way to prevent lifting is through proper prep of the nail plate and product control. It’s important to be very thorough when removing cuticle stuck to the nail plate—a quick swipe of the file isn’t enough! A sharp tool and a good cuticle solvent are your best friends. The next important thing is product control. If your beads are too wet or too dry, you’re going to get lifting for different reasons. Too wet? The product is sure to run into the eponychium and cause pocket lifting. Too dry? It won’t bond properly to the keratin, which means more lifting. Make sure that your acrylic beads are a medium-wet consistency; they should be creamy and very pliable. Press the acrylic into the nail to help the bond take place. Finally, when performing your finish filing, make sure that you really seal the edges of your product to prevent any further opportunities for lifting.”
Elaine Watson, Executive Vice President Kupa
“Tight nail prep and application are the keys to combating adhesion issues on particularly lift-prone nails. The nail plate must be clean of surface contaminants and overgrown cuticles. I like to use a diamond bit with an e-file set at its lowest speed to remove the cuticle from the nail plate. I find that this technique works better and more thoroughly than a pusher. When it comes to application, work on one finger at a time. First, mega- dehydrate the nail, then apply primer and finally apply the nail product. Once that nail is complete, move to the next one and perform the three steps. It may take a little longer, but it will help ensure a completely dry nail plate for the best product adhesion.”
This article was originally published on Nailpro in 2018.
