Skin Hydration Hints for the Winter Months

Feb 8th, 2022

Hand sanitizer, hot showers, arid airstreams, oh my! At this time of year, a plethora of culprits conspire to sap moisture from skin. Luckily, as a nail tech, you can help turn the tides by offering the proper hydrating products and procedures during manicure and pedicure services—and by providing some helpful hints and retail products for clients to keep on hand at home. Read on for a slew of suggestions from experts to keep skin soft and supple even amid the harshest winter conditions.

Formula Notes

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Skincare Savvy

Hydrated skin reflects a healthier appearance, but the reasons for keeping hands and feet moisturized go beyond skin-deep. For example, commonly used nail products can negatively impact skin when it is dry and compromised. “Dry skin in winter can make the skin much more vulnerable during nail services,” warns Maral K. Skelsey, M.D., director of The Dermatologic Surgery Center of Washington in Chevy Chase, Maryland. “In particular, nail polish remover can cause irritant contact dermatitis, as can cuticle removers, which usually contain sodium or potassium hydroxide. But, hydration of the skin can minimize the chance of that happening.”

Therefore, it is important to implement in-salon tactics that can work to infuse moisture on hands and feet. Marie Jhin, a board-certified dermatologist in San Carlos, California, recommends that if the client has her hands or feet soaking in water during the service, it is important to moisturize as soon as possible after soaking to retain hydration. If possible, she advises, cover the hands or feet with a wrap as well to keep that moisture in. “Some salons offer jelly solutions for pedicures, which can be a great add-on to help with increased hydration,” Jhin adds. “If clients are doing gel manicures, you can apply moisturizer and fingerless gloves to the hands, to moisturize the hands while the nails are under the UV light.”

Alternatively, some salons have chosen to go waterless altogether for manis and pedis, which can also help maintain skin’s hydration, and this choice can have further benefits as well. “One of the most important aspects of having a manicure—whether regular polish or gel—last the longest, and for your hands to stay hydrated, too, is by getting a waterless manicure,” opines Rachel Apfel Glass, founder of GLOSSLAB (@glosslab), a membership-based nail studio with five locations in New York City. “Water is a breeding ground for germs and bacteria and can remain in the bowl even after the water is drained. The water also causes the nail plate to expand, which then causes the polish to chip once the nail dries and assumes its original structure.”

Finally, as if the moisture-stripping conditions of cold-weather months—think whipping winds and low-humidity air both indoors and outdoors—were not enough, the pandemic has introduced habits that can cause dry skin, such as frequent hand washing and using hand sanitizer. “Hand washing and sanitizers make skin feel dull and dry,” explains Lynda Le (@polishperfectt on Pinterest), a Los Angeles-based nail technician and founder of Polish Perfect. “With the frequency of doing these because of the pandemic, your client’s skin, nails and cuticles might already be damaged. I recommend products with lactic, glycolic or salicylic acids for a more intensive treatment; these will exfoliate the skin, removing the dead cells on the surface and making skin soft.”

Nicolette Manesh (@nicolettesnails), nail artist, educator and owner of Nicolettes Nails in Waterlooville, England, also prefers to precede her hand and foot cream application with an exfoliation step. “In the winter months, it is great to use a high-quality scrub to help get rid of dead skin first so the hand cream can be absorbed better,” Manesh says. “I use a brand that incorporates a lot of different oils and suits different skin types.”

Striking Oil

If you do decide to go waterless for manis and pedis, try a different hydration-boosting solution: replacing the water with warm oil. Alison Angold (@beautytamingthebeast), an esthetician, manicurist and blogger at Beauty Taming the Beast, based in London, England, swears by this method. “The simplest way to add hydration to the nails and skin during a manicure is to add in a warm oil treatment—simply replacing the water that is used to soak the nails and cuticles with warmed oil,” Angold explains.

She adds that sweet almond oil is a popular choice, but other types can be used, too. “Gently warm the oil, and ask the client to place her fingertips into the oil, after the cuticle cream has been applied,” Angold details. “The warmed oil will intensely soften and hydrate the nails and the cuticles, and it will allow the cuticle cream to penetrate the area more effectively. The oil can then be used to massage the hands, which will also promote more hydrated skin.”

Experiment with a few different types of oils to find which works best for you and your clients. David Gray, owner of Talking Tan in Las Vegas, notes that several types can make for a great hydrating addition in manicures or pedicures. “The first worth mentioning is avocado oil, not only for its hydrating properties but also because it is rich in potassium, which promotes keratin production, preventing your nails from becoming brittle while promoting healthy nail growth,” Gray explains. “Jojoba oil is another great one—it is loaded with vitamins B and E, both of which hydrate and strengthen, and this oil penetrates the skin with ease, making for longer-lasting hydration. My third favorite is olive oil, which helps with flexibility, reduces the occurrence of irritating hangnails, and is extremely rejuvenating and nourishing.”

Another option is to offer a paraffin wax treatment, ideal for manicures and pedicures alike. “Paraffin wax, applied to the skin and nails, offers intense hydration; relieves chapped or dry skin and aching joints and muscles; and encourages the skin to detoxify,” Angold notes. “In addition to this, any products that are applied afterward will absorb more easily, due to the warmth of the skin.”

At-Home Hints

While your client is away from the salon, encourage them to maintain those skin-plumping results with daily hydration routines, and offer them help through at-home hints and the appropriate retail products. For example, when the colder months arrive, Manesh always instructs clients to use cuticle oil more regularly. “Something I recommend to clients: Leave a cuticle oil pen or bottle by the teakettle at home or work,” she says. “Most people will help themselves to a cup of tea or coffee a few times a day, and while the kettle is boiling, they can give their cuticles that extra attention they need.”

Le recommends warm Epsom salt baths for 15 minutes—great for hands and feet, as it softens the skin and nails—followed by oil or lotion application to lock in hydration. And Glass reminds clients to start caring for skin from within by staying well-hydrated throughout the day, every day. “To keep nails from becoming brittle and easily breaking, drink plenty of water—I recommend three liters per day,” Glass says. “Also, try using coconut oil. It is a great hand moisturizer, perfect for keeping nails from cracking and becoming brittle, and for improving cuticles. You can usually find coconut oil at your local grocery store, and any kind works! Or buying a lotion infused with coconut oil and using it before bed is a great way to stay moisturized and keep nails strong.”

Formula Notes
When tackling dry skin, should you reach for a lotion, cream or oil? Skelsey breaks down the differences: “Lotions are usually liquid and spread easily on the skin, but they are not usually as hydrating as oil or creams. Oils are more hydrating, but they should not be used on oozing or infected areas, because they are occlusive and can make an infection worse. Creams are more hydrating and disappear into the skin, as opposed to lotions. Look for products with dimethicone, which leave the skin feeling soft and are readily absorbed into the skin.”