Katie Barnes shares her expert tips on how to choose the right nail file to help you shape nails like a pro.
Courtesy of Seventyfour via Adobe Stock
The first step to achieving the perfect nail shape is choosing the right nail file. There are so many types of nail files on the market, how do you know which one to use? All files are coated in a material like sandpaper, which creates a grit-like coarse surface. Like sandpaper, nail files are graded according to how much grit they contain per square inch. Have you ever found that your nail files from the same company have not always been the same consistency, and you assume a bad batch? Nail file paper comes on a big roll, think of your nail forms. This is constantly pulled and cut to make the files. Over time, this will cause friction against other areas, wearing them down. This means that the lower down the roll you get, the quality will not be as good as the first part of the roll. Now, which bit of the roll a brand gets is down to one thing — cost. The more expensive files only use the first 25% of that roll but can guarantee the same grit and quality throughout all batches. Majority of brands use any part of the roll. The cheapest files use the end 25%.
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The first step to achieving the perfect nail shape is choosing the right nail file. There are so many types of nail files on the market, how do you know which one to use? All files are coated in a material like sandpaper, which creates a grit-like coarse surface. Like sandpaper, nail files are graded according to how much grit they contain per square inch. Have you ever found that your nail files from the same company have not always been the same consistency, and you assume a bad batch? Nail file paper comes on a big roll, think of your nail forms. This is constantly pulled and cut to make the files. Over time, this will cause friction against other areas, wearing them down. This means that the lower down the roll you get, the quality will not be as good as the first part of the roll. Now, which bit of the roll a brand gets is down to one thing — cost. The more expensive files only use the first 25% of that roll but can guarantee the same grit and quality throughout all batches. Majority of brands use any part of the roll. The cheapest files use the end 25%.
What Grit Should I Use?
The first step to achieving the perfect nail shape is choosing the right nail file. There are so many types of nail files on the market, how do you know which one to use?Courtesy of Milan via Adobe StockThe higher the grit, the less abrasive the file, and the lower the grit, the coarser the file. Grit quality is important for file longevity.
For natural nails, a fine grit (180-240) is gentle and effective.
Coarse files (80-100 grit) are best for de-bulking acrylic or longer nail enhancements.
Medium files (150-180 grit) are best used to shape extensions or shape the free edge of toenails that are thicker than fingernails. .
Fine files (240-600 grit) are best for refining.
Ultrafine files (600-2400 grit) are used to buff the nail to a shine.
When filing nail shapes on enhancements, it is important to remember that the way your form is fitted and how you build the product is paramount for the correct shape and longevity of the structure. You cannot alternate between shapes with just a filing technique, otherwise your apex placement as well as your lower and upper arches will be incorrect, leading to premature service breakdown.
The way you hold your file is important when filing all parts of the enhancement, including your sidewalls/lower arch, parallel sides, apex and free edge.
Oval, Round & Almond Nail
To achieve any of these shapes:
1) Hold the file at a 45-degree angle from the extension to the free edge and slowly roll up.
2) From there, file around the free edge to create either a pointed or rounded end to suit your client.
3) To file the parallel sides, hold your file flat and move back and forth from free edge to cuticle. Repeat this step on the other side, whilst ensuring you keep checking your free edge thickness.
4) Move to the center and file in the same way from free edge to apex (back 1/3).
Refine with a 180-grit file in a polishing movement from one side all the way to the other to ensure an even curve. Your upper arch should come down completely straight from the apex to the free edge at a 45 degree angle. Your upper arch and lower arch should create a triangle shape.
Stiletto Nail Nail shapesILLUSTRATIONS BY ELENA AT ADOBE STOCK
The filing technique is similar to above, but your lower arch must be absolutely straight. Follow steps 1, 3 and 4 from above. Don’t be tempted to try to round the tip or sidewalls, these should come out absolutely straight and to a perfectly sharp point.
Turn the finger on its side, so you don’t over file. In turn, your lower arch tapers upwards. Refine with a 180-grit file in a polishing movement from one side all the way to the other to ensure an even curve.
Your upper arch should come down completely straight from the apex to the free edge at a 45-degree angle. Your upper arch and lower arch should create a triangle shape.
Square Nail
To file this shape, begin with the free edge, then the side walls.
1) Hold your file completely straight against the free edge to create the true square shape.
2) To file the side walls, turn the client’s finger on its side. then hold the file at a 45-degree angle from the extension to the free edge and slowly roll up, making sure the lower arch is absolutely straight and parallel with the side of the finger and not dipping down.
3) To file the parallel sides, hold your file flat and move back and forth from free edge to cuticle. Repeat this step on the other side, whilst ensuring you keep checking your free edge thickness. This is the same technique as the above shapes.
4) Move to the center and file in the same way from free edge to apex (1/2 extended pink).
Refine with a 180-grit file in a polishing movement from one side all the way to the other to ensure an even curve. Your upper arch should come down completely straight out from the apex to the free edge and not curve at all. Your upper arch and lower arch should create a rectangular shape.
Squoval Nail
A squoval nail is built in the same way as a traditional square, but when filing the free edge, tilt the file underneath the corners.
Tapered Square/Ballerina Nail
File the same as a square, but angle your file more on the tapered edges. To file the parallel sides, follow the steps from the other shapes. The apex is in the back 1/3. Your upper arch should come down completely straight out from the apex to the free edge and not curve at all. Your upper arch and lower arch should create an upside down triangle.
About the Author
Katie Barnes has over 15 years of experience as a nail professional, starting her own salon in Warwick, England in 2007. She started her education journey in 2011, obtaining her teaching qualification from the University of Warwick. Barnes is the founder of the Katie Barnes Academy and founded the Katie Barnes Tool Range in 2017.
