The first step in my salon skin care regimen is exfoliation. Gently buffing away dry skin first is important so that we are not working backward and hydrating skin that will be exfoliated away. In my atelier, I offer dry manicuring using an e-file and diamond bits. It is a highly requested service that works especially well on dry skin. Instead of soaking the hands and trimming cuticles, the fine diamond bits slough away any corner calluses, excess skin and hangnails, nearly eliminating the need for cuticle nippers or cutting. A dry manicure also helps nail services last longer by allowing the polish or enhancement to adhere better to the nail plate, and the ability to get significantly closer to the cuticle, giving clients much more time between appointments.
Skin care for our hands, nails and toes comes in three important steps: exfoliating the old, hydrating the new, and of course, practicing home maintenance in between professional services.
Exfoliation
The first step in my salon skin care regimen is exfoliation. Gently buffing away dry skin first is important so that we are not working backward and hydrating skin that will be exfoliated away. In my atelier, I offer dry manicuring using an e-file and diamond bits. It is a highly requested service that works especially well on dry skin. Instead of soaking the hands and trimming cuticles, the fine diamond bits slough away any corner calluses, excess skin and hangnails, nearly eliminating the need for cuticle nippers or cutting. A dry manicure also helps nail services last longer by allowing the polish or enhancement to adhere better to the nail plate, and the ability to get significantly closer to the cuticle, giving clients much more time between appointments.
For waterless pedicures, you can use an e-file with specialty pedicure bits. For soaking pedicures, invest in a good foot scrub. Like nail file grits, be sure to start with the product or tool that is the coarsest, then work to the smoother side or product. Finish in a circular motion instead of back and forth; this helps to seal and prevent peeling and cracking.
Hydration
Now that the skin has been exfoliated, it is ready to drink in the much-needed hydration provided by cuticle oils and lotions. Start with a hot towel wrap to open the pores—even in the summer months—this is a real treat. Drop on cuticle oil, then warm up a deeply hydrating cream in your hands before applying. This is a fast and simple way to add a luxurious touch, instead of applying it directly to the skin. Creams with ingredients like shea butter, hyaluronic acid and ceramides have ultra-hydrating properties. Always be sure to ask your client about allergies and sensitivities before any treatment. Take into consideration the scent, texture and “slip” of a massage cream when selecting your options. I frequently cocktail products together to satisfy my client’s individual needs, including:
- An all-over hand and foot cream with a light scent.
- A spa-like scented lotion—try combining two options like floral and citrus.
- A very simple, classic hand cream that is hydrating yet will not cause issues with clients with eczema or allergies.
- A heavy, concentrated hand cream for spot treatment on frequent hand-washers such as hairstylists.
Home Maintenance
Now that we have successfully smoothed and rehydrated our client’s skin, it is their turn to do a little home maintenance between appointments. It is the perfect time to educate them on the importance of maintenance and suggest a few retail products to make a little extra money, too. Here are the three top retail products I love to recommend and how I tell my clients to use them:
- Cuticle oil: Most clients know to apply it to the cuticle area, but not everyone knows the importance of the underside of the nail as well, especially if they wear enhancements. Cuticle oil helps prevent the natural nail from curling and peeling from the enhancement.
- Hand cream: Keep it by the sink to apply after every hand washing to lock in moisture, and before bed, paired with cotton gloves.
- Foot cream: Apply post-shower, or my favorite trick: preworkout. It will absorb by the time clients return home, and the extra heat and friction from their workout will allow the ingredients to penetrate the skin better.
About the Author
From beauty campaigns to backstage at New York Fashion Week, Julie Kandalec is the founding educator of Julie K Nail Academy and the owner of Julie K Nail ARTelier in New York City, an exclusive, by-appointment-only nail art studio offering one-of-a-kind manicure services. Her clients include Camila Cabello, Jessica Chastain, Selena Gomez, Pete Davidson, Dove Cameron, Joe Jonas, Mariah Carey, and Hailee Steinfeld. Her work has been featured in Allure, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, WWD, and on campaigns for Chanel, CND, Dior Beauty, essie, OPI, YSL Beauty, Tiffany & Co., Glossier, Bobbi Brown, Urban Decay and Maybelline. She is also the author of Nail Art Design Book and is a Nailpro 2022 advisory board member.
