Remember when it was fun to break the rules? While many of us have become so accustomed to our daily set of rule-based interactions that we barely even notice we are conforming to them, society’s unspoken rules do not always serve us. This is especially true in a salon setting, where becoming fixated on supposed industry norms can stifle creativity and hamper business. Instead of following a never-ending litany of traditional standards, we spoke to nail industry mavericks who have carved out a successful niche by following their intuition—even if it means rejecting the rules every now and then.
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Remember when it was fun to break the rules? While many of us have become so accustomed to our daily set of rule-based interactions that we barely even notice we are conforming to them, society’s unspoken rules do not always serve us. This is especially true in a salon setting, where becoming fixated on supposed industry norms can stifle creativity and hamper business. Instead of following a never-ending litany of traditional standards, we spoke to nail industry mavericks who have carved out a successful niche by following their intuition—even if it means rejecting the rules every now and then.
1. The Customer Is Always Right
Mindlessly following unreasonable customer demands is the first rule that must be broken. Not only can it be detrimental to the salon and staff, but it may also rub other regular clients the wrong way. Try to arrive at a resolution that all parties find agreeable, and as a worst-case scenario, do not be afraid of showing aggressive clients the door. “Our core values are at the heart of everything we do, and our ninth core value states, ‘The customer is not always right, but we treat them with love and kindness anyway.’ Ephesians 4:2,” references Kat Eckles, co-founder and chief branding officer of freecoat.
2. Follow the Competition
It can be tempting to copy a competitor, but creating your own style can help your salon stand out in a good way. Eckles encourages embracing a unique perspective, beginning with branding. “Salons have gotten a bad rap for looking the exact same. With this comes a lack of uniqueness, and it is oftentimes hard to tell a difference in offerings between one or the other. Marketing is just as important as operations, and you can get creative on your website and Instagram,” she shares. Aside from the visual, let this point of view extend to how you conduct business.
3. Nails Can Be Too Long
Instead of immediately reaching for the clippers, Hong Ngo, owner of Hong’s Nails in New Orleans, Louisiana, embraces a let it grow philosophy. This approach has made her the go-to person for natural, long nails—meaning really long. The lengthiest nails Hong has serviced were 25 inches, though she works with clients of all kinds. Customers seek out Ngo when others send them away for fear of breaking their twisted, turning nails—she spends three to six hours on average working her magic on their fingertips. This ethos and diligence have kept Ngo in business for 25 years and allowed her to build relationships that have lasted as long. “I create beautiful designs to match the beauty that is inside my customers,” she says.
4. Natural Is Boring
Do not feel obligated to push acrylics on clients—instead, embrace the natural. “There is an idea that natural nails are not cool and that they cannot be healthy and strong; this is just not true,” says nail tech entrepreneur Canishiea J. Sams. “In general, it is important for all businesses and salons in this industry to ensure all products being used are as safe and healthy as can be,” she says, noting that clients should be reminded that nail growth is possible with the right nail care. “The best advice I can give is for business owners to do their research. Maintaining your nail’s health is important, and finding products that help do so are just as important.”
5. Never Say No
There is an unwritten expectation in nail services to go above and beyond the original scope of the work, though this can lead to negative outcomes for all parties. Simply put, if you give an inch, clients will often take a mile. “For private house calls that Nailing Hollywood stylists provide, we have seen a trend where clients may ask for more than originally agreed upon, like an unexpected friend who also wants service. It puts our nail stylists in an awkward situation. While most of the time our nail stylists are happy to accommodate if time allows, sometimes they just do not have the time,” says Mazz Hanna, CEO of Nailing Hollywood Agency and celebrity nail artist. “If we end up rushing, that means we are not able to be as detailed or provide the level of service the clients are expecting. In a business where our clients are paying for quality, you never want anything to jeopardize that.” To turn this around, she encourages normalizing no and building boundaries—clients will understand and ultimately respect you for it.
6. The Lower the Price, The Better
When prices are too low, it can reflect on the overall quality of the salon and stagnate service offerings. “Salons can rise above the cheap service cliche by positioning themselves as leaders in the space to their clientele,” says Hanna. Create an original service that clients will be attracted to, and do not be afraid to price it at what it is really worth. Learning a new technique gives staff the opportunity to establish themselves as experts as they educate clients about crystals and CBD.
7. Nail Art Is Tacky
Tamara Di Lullo, CND education ambassador, editorial nail artist and the owner of Candy Nail Bar, in Montreal, Québec, loves breaking the rules and credits this mindset as being a major part of her professional success. “When I opened my salon in 2009, I was told that ‘nail art was tacky, just a trend and that it would never work as a viable business model,’ and here I am 13 years later with one of Canada’s most recognized salons specializing in nail art,” she says. It is another reminder to push the boundaries of nail aesthetics—even if it is not embraced immediately. “As nail professionals, we all have the power to take the nail industry to new levels and should never limit our dreams based on what society tells us.”
8. Do Not Defend Your Staff
When customers make snide remarks about staff—whether they do not necessarily mean to be offensive—rules tell you to hold your tongue. However, sometimes it is worth it to step in and speak up. “The other day, a client came to the register and said, ‘I was surprised to have been served by such an educated young woman.’ I was shocked and deeply saddened by her response. This type of socioeconomic or classist thinking is still rampant in our industry,” Di Lullo emphasizes. Passing judgment on nail techs can push talented people out of the salon, leave staff feeling defeated and perpetuate prejudices, so what should you do if it happens on your watch? “Do you sit back and say nothing, swipe that card and suck it up, or do you say something and pray to not get a one-star Google review?” she questions. “As business owners, we never want conflict in the salon, but we do have to stand up for ourselves and especially our staff.” Although this customer quickly tried to correct what was said after Di Lullo intervened, it left her employees questioning why they had been made to feel less then. While it may run counter to what is comfortable, if this happens, respond, and make it a teachable moment.
9. Play It Safe
Although playing it safe seems like a no-brainer for instant success, disrupting the industry can yield greater rewards over time. “Businesses tend to be uncomfortable when it comes to walking away from tradition and history, but does any business really want to stay the same forever? While innovation can be difficult, we have found it to be 100% necessary and bettered our salon by acting on it,” notes Debbie Penzone, the president and CEO of PENZONE Salons and Spas. You do not have to commit to a total overhaul; subtle upgrades to services are enough to push the boundaries and revive the salon. “We have updated our protocols to include a warm aromatherapy towel with every service, introduced paraffin masque chambers for an even more elevated experience and introduced Sound Off headsets and optional blindfolds, to any nail service to promote mindfulness and ultimate relaxation. Change is inevitable, and we have chosen to embrace it.”
10. Lead With Your Head
“There is a misunderstanding that by leading from the heart, you are not being logical,” says Penzone on switching priorities. “We have found that in such a personal, guest-oriented industry, that the reverse tends to be the best fit,” she shares. This is because relationships are everything in service, and when your staff is comfortable opening up with guests, friendships build. “Treating others with care and compassion and focusing on human connection over everything else have proven to be the most successful course of action,” continues Penzone, who advocates prioritizing the heart even when there is an issue and when the rules say to follow your head.
About the Author
Emilie Branch is a beauty editor with over a decade of experience contributing to a range of publications. She does not feel like herself without a mani-pedi. She lives in New York with her young family.
This article was originally published in the May 2022 issue of Nailpro magazine.