2017 brought back reverse nail forms and introduced techniques that simplified the process of creating hard gel extensions without the need of forms or adhesive. But new products require continuing education. Enter Greg and Habib Salo of Young Nails. On Thursday, the nail bros took to Facebook Live to announce and demonstrate a new technique that bridges the gap. “This a technique that has been perfected,” said Habib on the live stream. “We’ve always shared techniques with you for free, that’s not changing.”

The technique features non-welled nail tips that Young Nails uses on runway shows for paintings and designs. According to Greg, the specific nail tip mold, paired with Synergy Gel, will help techs achieve gel perfection when it comes to sculpting. “There is no miracle technique to building,” Greg said. “We want to show you how to take this technique and cut minutes off your service time. It’s a way that is going to improve your services. With this mold, you can create a free edge that is completely fleshed out the natural nail and has a perfect upper arch.”

For the techs that have trouble sculpting with hard gel, a lot of issues stem from getting the form to flush perfectly to the natural nail and problems with the the upper arch. While this technique will save you time, to execute it properly, you still need skill. “You’re not going to be able to just set the tip and send them out the door.” Greg said. “You have to be able to use your amazing skills as nail technicians to build the right structure, the right body, so that the body doesn’t break and the body doesn’t crack.”

Here’s how the technique works: 

1. Prep the nails by pushing back the cuticles and clean the surface of the nails. Take a medium-grit band and an e-file to lightly and gently remove shine from the surface of the nail. Clean the surface of the nails using Swipe. Apply Protein Bond.

2. Apply a thin layer Base Gel from cuticle to free edge to ensure great adhesion. Cure for 60 seconds in an LED lamp.

3. Use a thin amount of Concealer Pink Gel and place it on the inside of the tip mold. Float the gel to cover the desired area. Set the mold to the end of the nail. When the client puts her hand in the lamp, make sure the mold does not touch the base of the lamp because it will move affect the shape. Cure for 60 seconds. Repeat nail by nail.

4. Use a c-curve pincher tool to lightly press the mold at the stress area to lightly pop off the mold and reveal the gel underneath.

5. Take a generous amount of Concealer Pink Gel and float the gel from cuticle to free edge to build the nail. Cure for 30 seconds in the dimmer function. Cure once more for 60 seconds in high power mode.

6. Use Swipe to clean the surface and clean the underneath. Finish file to refine the shape. Remove dust and debris. Apply Protein Bond and ad gel polish or lacquer as desired.

Watch the full tutorial and Q+A with Greg below:

What do you think of this new technique? Let us know in the comments below!

-Sigourney Nuñez

[Image: Instagram @youngnailsinc]

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